Last week’s ATK/Alton Brown pancake comparison (theoretical comparison, that is, because my AB book is still lent out) got me thinking about the nature of quickbreads. What is the difference between muffins and pancakes, really? Pancakes are really just muffins cooked on a griddle instead of baked in a tin. Can you make a lower calorie pancake by substituting in fruit puree, as is frequently done in muffin-making? To test the theory, I made buttermilk pancakes with leftover canned pumpkin instead of oil. I ended up with pancake-muffins, the latest hybrid bakery item to come out of my kitchen since scone-muffins and croissant-bagels. The pancakes were pillowy and tender like muffins, with none of the melt-in-your-mouth tendencies of true pancakes. (Unsurprising, considering butter does, in fact, melt in your mouth.) I liked the pan-muffins, and I will make them again with banana next weekend. I don’t know if I’d serve these beauties to guests, as they might not appreciate my ground-breaking culinary wizardry.