I had a cookbook windfall this Christmas, and every one featured a recipe for salsa cruda (uncooked tomato sauce). The caveat for every single recipe, of course, was “don’t even bother if your tomatoes aren’t fresh and delicious.” Needless to say, supermarket tomatoes in February won’t cut it. But after a month of staring at my green tomatoes, willing them to ripen, my tomato plants are dappled with heavy red fruit. I had a tomato and basil salad on Thursday, and a tomato omelette after run this morning. Tonight I used two more making salsa cruda with whole-wheat macaroni. The basic recipe came from The Complete Book of Pasta and Noodles, another America’s Test Kitchens library treasure that is mine for two more beautiful weeks.